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It's squash season and most anticipated time of the year, not least for all the curries and other hearty meals of autumn. This Northwest Indian sautéed dish is a regular in my kitchen, and the combination of fresh ginger, chili and jaggery gives it a wonderful balance of flavour. The biryani, meanwhile, is loaded with whole spices, long-grain rice and ghee, which give enhanced flavour to the strata of grains and vegetables.

Squash and Mushroom Biryani

A celebration of curry dishes starts on October 6, so how perfect to celebrate than with a rich, warming, all-in-one-pot layered rice dish? For convenience, prepare the vegetable curry component in advance and layer all components on the day you want to serve.

Preparation 20 min
Cook 2 hr
Serves 4

For the vegetable curry base
4 tbsp ghee, or use butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, lengthwise slit
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or substitute with mild paprika
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cut into bite-sized pieces
300g button mushrooms, cleaned and halved
400ml vegetable stock, or use water
Salt, as needed
2 tbsp chopped coriander, for serving

For the rice
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

Biryani assembly
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, soaked in 3 tbsp warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, to serve

Begin by preparing the curry base. Heat the ghee in a large, heavy-based saucepan on a moderate flame, incorporate the cumin, bay and clove spices, and fry for a brief moment. Stir in the sliced onion and sauté, stirring often, for 30-35 minutes, until softened. When the onions start to brown, transfer half of them to a separate dish and set aside (you'll use them later during the layering).

Introduce the green chillies and ginger strips to the remaining onions, cook for a minute, then mix in the tomato puree, chili powder, turmeric powder and coriander powder, and fry for a minute. Turn down to a gentle flame, blend in the yogurt and simmer for a couple of minutes.

Add the pumpkin pieces and mushroom halves, toss to cover in the spices, then fry for several minutes. Pour in the liquid, and season to taste. Heat until boiling, then turn down the temperature, place lid and cook gently for 18-20 minutes, stirring once halfway to make sure nothing's stuck to the base of the pan. Garnish with coriander, then remove from the heat.

Heat the oven to moderately hot temperature. Wash the rice, then place it in a saucepan with a litre of water and the bay, cardamom and seasoning. Bring to a boil, simmer for 10-12 minutes, until partially cooked, then drain.

To build the biryani, place a tablespoon of warmed ghee in a casserole pot for which you have a secure cover. Spoon one portion the spiced vegetables, then layer with some the cooked grains. Sprinkle half the saffron infusion, ginger strips, mint, ground cardamom and garam masala, then top with the reserved fried onions. Layer with the remaining curry mixture, then arrange the leftover rice. Finish with the remaining clarified butter, saffron water, ginger, mint, cardamom powder and garam masala.

Seal with baking paper, place lid securely, then cook on the center rack of the oven for 15-17 minutes, so all the flavours infuse the grains. Remove of the oven, leave to rest, still covered, for 10 minutes, then lift off the lid and serve with yogurt sauce and fresh salad.

Rajasthani Achari Kaddu (Pumpkin with Spice Blend Stir-Fry)

The Hindi term "pickling style" describes seasoning a dish using pickling spices, and the mix includes mustard seeds, fennel seeds, fenugreek, cumin, hing and nigella, but they're not used only in preserved foods. The blend also appears in all manner of curries and stir-fries, like this recipe.

Preparation 10 min
Cook 30 min
Serves 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
750g squash flesh, or use pumpkin, cut into bite-sized pieces
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, as needed
1 tbsp jaggery, or dark brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Put the mustard seeds, fenugreek seeds and fennel seeds in a spice grinder, crush coarsely, then set aside. Put the cooking oil in a spacious skillet or Indian wok on a moderate flame. Add the crushed spices and the asafoetida, and sauté, stirring, for a few seconds. Mix in the chopped ginger, cook for a short while, then add the squash, chilli and turmeric, and fry, stirring, for five minutes more.

Pour a small amount water to the pot, salt with salt to taste and bring to a boil. Place lid, reduce the flame, and simmer for 20 minutes, stirring once halfway. Mix in the jaggery, crushing some of the pieces a bit, then incorporate the mango powder, stir well and serve warm with chapatis or naan.